INVENTIVE

New York Fashion Week Is Getting Colorful—and Wild

Sergio Hudson showed the power of fine tailoring, Puppets and Puppets had corset tops, over-sized blazers, and plaids, Batsheva went Gatsby, and Dur Doux proved a mosaic of color.

Dur Doux

Mother and daughter duo Cynthia and Najla Burt of Dur Doux titled their fall/winter 2022 collection “La Nouvelle Mosaïque.” As such, the collection was a contemporary reinterpretation of the mosaic art form. For the first time ever, the brand also debuted a menswear collection alongside their womenswear line. There was no shortage of color here, with the color palette including purple, green, blue, red, orange, and indigo. Tweed was featured in menswear for a very untraditional choice of fabric. It was a true mosaic of color and textures from tulle to silk. Kristopher Fraser

SMARTLY DONE

New York Fashion Week’s Message: Let’s Return to Glamour

Tim Teeman

Puppets and Puppets

Since its inception three years ago, Carly Mark and Ayla Argetino’s fashion label Puppets and Puppets has been part art project, part costume, part fashion label. This season's show at the Ukrainian National Home in the East Village had all the art-school vibe with a polished NYFW show glow.

Femme-leaning androgynous models walked in goth-inspired looks in a palette of dark earth tones, while a single tap dancer provided the soundtrack with his feet. Corset tops, oversized blazers, plaids, gigot sleeves, and slinky dresses with an Elizabethan drama all made their way into this year’s collection. Adding to the theatrics, Instagram-famous Italian greyhound Tika the Iggy came wearing a custom onesie by the designer. Sarah Shears

Sergio Hudson

Sergio Hudson has come a long way from dressing Michelle Obama for President Joe Biden’s inauguration. It was the moment that arguably put the designer on the map, but it’s been all uphill for him since. At New York Fashion Week, the designer filled a void that has gone ignored: the power of classic tailoring. Most designers have now put themselves in one of two camps, athleisure, or classic evening wear. Sergio Hudson, on the other hand, opted for clean silhouettes, tailored jackets, and form-fitting cocktail dresses. Kristopher Fraser

Batsheva

The mood was all Gatsby-style glamour at Casa Cipriani, where designer Batsheva Hay held “an intimate Jazz celebration.” Known for her quirky and modest take on '70s style Laura-Ashley inspired prairie dresses and bohemian frocks, this year’s collection deviated slightly to include some knee baring, and skin exposing ensembles, moire and velvet textiles, and silhouettes straight out of the 1850s with exaggerated gigot sleeves, cinched waists, and full skirts. Sarah Shears

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